South Africa: Donkey Carts Stand Idle As Tourism Dies in Cederberg Village

Heuningvlei was devastated by flooding for two consecutive years but the residents are determined to keep their town alive

For years, people in the remote village of Heuningvlei in the Cederberg have relied on tourism and subsistence farming. But devastating floods and heavy rains since 2023 have wreaked havoc on the roads and infrastructure. Popular donkey cart trails had to close for months.

“Many tourists say it’s the most beautiful place … I agree. But to visit here and to stay here is different. This is a struggle to survive,” says Johannes Ockhuis, fondly known as Oom Hollie.

The 89-year-old is one of just 75 permanent residents of Heuningvlei. The village is located deep in the Cederberg mountains and about 15km from Wupperthal.

Most people in Heuningvlei are subsistence farmers and have historically cultivated rooibos. People also rely on tourism – providing lodging and tour guiding. The donkey cart trails were a primary means of employment for many of them.

The two-hour Heuningvlei donkey cart trial, on the Krakadouw route, has been closed for months due to severe damage from rain and flooding. The trail runs from the top of the Pakhuis Pass and the Heuningvlei village.

The traditional carts are able to transport three people at a time, usually pulled by about six donkeys through the rugged Cederberg mountains.

The trail was established in 2006 as part of the Cederberg Heritage Route, an organisation helping with community development in the area. The donkeys, about 30 of them, roam freely in the town, and often graze in the bush, among the blooming pear trees.

According to CapeNature in 2023, river banks broke, flooding campsites, cottages and bridges and toppling trees.

Residents of Heuningvlei were cut off in 2023 and this past winter. The roads completely washed away and the power was off for days.

“We used to have rain but not like it is now. Roads are washed away and you need to build it again,” says Dalene van der Westhuizen, who runs the Heuningvlei tourism office.

“When it rains, you have nothing. No electricity. And you have to sit. You sit between the rivers, and you can’t go anywhere.”

Van der Westhuizen runs the Heuningvlei tourism office, and together with a committee also the backpackers lodge. It is the only accommodation in the town. The town also has no grocery shop, tuck shop or restaurant.

The backpackers frequently hosts church groups.

There are no grocery shops or restaurants in Heuningvlei. There is no public transport. The nearest clinic is in Wupperthal and the nearest hospital is in Clanwilliam.

The old school building, which closed down due to there being too few learners, was converted into a backpackers. It hosts single hikers or bigger groups, frequently church groups, says Van der Westhuizen.

Hikers would walk from the Pakhuis to Heuningvlei, overnight at the backpackers, then go to other end points further on the trail. The donkey carts would transport their luggage and also take them back to the starting point.

But since last year’s floods, the donkey cart routes have been closed because it is no longer safe to take the two-hour journey.

“You can’t transport now. You saw what the roads look like,” says Van der Westhuizen.

The gravel road to Heuningvlei is destroyed and eroded in many places. Some sections had water puddles, and it is a challenge to access it even with a 4×4 vehicle.

For months, Van der Westhuizen has not been able to accept bookings from hikers or tour groups because of the road’s condition.

CapeNature is still assessing the extent of the damage. Spokesperson Luke Folb said the damage to the surrounding areas is “quite severe”.

It is in the process of appointing an engineer and “is currently using all the resources at its disposal to respond to flood and storm damage”.

CapeNature has also applied for additional funding through the Disaster Management Process. “This process requires patience and due diligence,” said Folb.

The remoteness of Heuningvlei means that the villagers strive to be self-sufficient.

The villagers cultivate organic vegetables and rooibos. “We plant for ourselves,” says Van der Westhuizen. Almost every house in this village has a piece of soil they farm on, she says.

Once a month residents pay someone to take them to Clanwilliam to do all their errands, including collecting social grants, among other things.

Van der Westhuizen says people in the town still barter with one another. “You give me a bag of sugar, and I give you vegetables, a bag of potatoes, onions, pumpkins … We do it like it was in the old days,” she says.

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